What to do with a purchased watch? Instructions for dummies

Friends, hello everyone.  

You are on the Feeltime watch channel, my name is Stanislav, and today I want to make an article for you about what to do with your newly purchased watch.  

I will tell you how to care for it, whether care is needed at all, what you can do and when, and what you absolutely should not do.  

I'll tell you what the options are.  

To a greater extent, I simply collected cases and requests that appeared over time, and I want to give you answers to them.   in one text. I think it won't be useful for seasoned guys, but for those who are just entering the world of watches, it will be useful.  

Because there is a simple truth - "What is obvious to me is not obvious to others."  

So you bought yourself a watch. And let's say it's on a metal bracelet.  

Bracelets are usually made with a large margin so that they can be adjusted to fit any hand size.

I often get asked by buyers from other cities if you can send me a custom-made bracelet. "I'll tell you my hand size."  

The answer is "No." Bracelets are adjusted by watchmakers or jewelers. And sometimes, even with a person present, it is not possible to get the right size the first time.

The second question: “How do I adjust the bracelet myself?” Friends, I’ll tell you honestly, I’ve been in the watch industry for 13 years and have never removed a bracelet link myself.

It's not very difficult, there are a bunch of videos on the Internet on how to do it, but in a normal workshop it costs a penny and is done in 10 minutes. And I recommend doing it this way, because I have real cases when buyers scratched the bracelet when removing the links.  

But there are people now at the front or in places where there are problems with craftsmen. What should we do then?  

Then remove it yourself. To do this, you can buy a special screwdriver online, or even a whole set for this purpose.  

Sometimes, with some models, this screwdriver comes right in the kit. But that's more of an exception. The brands themselves seem to hint: "Have it done by specialists."  

One of the popular questions:

"Can I put a different strap on my watch?"

It definitely depends on the type of mount. For example, I have a standard mount with a width of 20 mm on my Hamilton.  

That is, it is enough to choose any belt with a width of 20 mm in a suitable style and color, and install it.

I, for example, do just that. I have the original bracelet and straps, but I wear a few purchased non-original ones with pleasure. And, by the way, the strap can really change the perception of the watch, so it's a really cool option.  

But it happens that the watch has a specific mount. Or some kind of bracelet integrated into the case. Then usually only the original, or you have to have a master make a custom one. But there are also limitations here. Usually you can only make a custom leather strap. For example, I don't like them.  

Then you probably have a question: “How do I set the clock?”

If you don't have a chronograph (stopwatch), then everything is generally simple.  

If you have a mechanical watch , you need to wind it first. Usually 20-30 turns are enough if the watch has not been running before.  

There are mechanisms in which the spring is noticeably stretched and you will immediately feel that it is becoming more difficult to wind. If this feeling appears, then it is definitely enough.  

But there are calibers of mechanisms that don't have this feeling of a stop, so you can twist it. Nothing bad will happen.

Next, pull the crown out to the extreme position and turn the hands until the date changes.  

It is important to do this first, because when the date clicks, you understand that a new day has begun. Because if you do not have a special window on the dial indicating 12/24 hours, you cannot understand what half of the day it is now. Because I recently had an incident with a client because of this. A person sent a watch from another city for service, and it turned out that he simply mixed up the part of the day when setting it.  

Next, you turn the crown to the zero position, pressing it against the case. And then very carefully move it to the right one click. This is the first (middle) position in which the date will change clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on the caliber of the mechanism.

We set the date, pressed the crown against the case again, if it screws in, then pressed a little more, and carefully twist it along the thread. As soon as it rests against the case, that's enough. You don't need to twist it too hard, because you can tear the thread.

The difference between quartz and mechanics in terms of time setting is only in the factory.

If you have a watch with a self-winding mechanism , you may be wondering: "What the heck is this?"  

In simple terms, this is when the mechanism is automatically wound by the movement of the hand. This is a very useful thing, because constantly winding a watch not only takes time, but also wears out the parts. Therefore, it is better if it is an automatic winding.  

A self-winding watch is very easy to visually identify by the moving pendulum, which can be seen through the back cover of the watch (if it is transparent). It is this pendulum that, as it rotates, winds the spring.

Each mechanism has its own power reserve. Usually this is indicated in the description. The minimum for today is 38 hours, the maximum for inexpensive ones is 80 hours. That is, this is the indicator at which, if your watch is fully wound, it can lie for so long and not stop.

Sometimes people say to me: "Did my clock start to stop?"

Friends, unfortunately I don't know how you wear it. With what intensity. Maybe it's been lying around for one day, and then you wore it for half a day and put it back down. Of course, you don't have an automatic winding. Then of course you have to wind the watch manually.  

So the timing here is very individual. But if your watch is fully wound and you wear it actively every day, then it shouldn't stop.  

Of course, in mechanical watches without automatic winding, you always have to wind it manually. And such mechanisms also have a clear, defined power reserve.  

Every mechanical caliber has an error. This figure is usually indicated in the characteristics of the movement.  

In inexpensive calibers, this is usually plus or minus 20-40 seconds per day.  

In expensive calibers or certified chronometers, this error can reach up to 1 second per day.  

In simple terms, this means that the clock will be in a hurry or behind by a digit within the specified range.

It happens that the indicators are much higher. For example, the clock speeds up abnormally by 5 minutes per day. Usually this is the result of magnetization of the mechanism. This is easy to fix by demagnetizing it in the service.  

For example, I don't monitor the accuracy of my watch at all. If there is no anomaly, I don't see any point in paying attention to it. But there are different people, so I'm telling you what options there may be.  

Of course, if your watch is 2 minutes fast a day, this is not the norm.  

Of course, with quartz you won't have any such issues.  

Quartz is much more accurate, quartz easily tolerates shocks, quartz does not lose accuracy if you shake it, because mechanics, for example, do not like very sudden movements. And this always affects its accuracy.  

But mechanics are still more popular and more appreciated. It's like music on CD and vinyl. Vinyl is less practical, but more tube-like and has more value.  

If you took a quartz watch ... You have a question: "How long will the battery last?"

There are many types of batteries. Standard ones usually last 2-3 years if you don't actively use your stopwatch.  

There are more complex systems. For example, in the Japanese Citizen with Eco Drive technology. There the battery can last 10-12 years. But you need to understand that the more complex this technology is, the more difficult and expensive the replacement will be later.  

Sometimes I'm asked: "How do I change the battery in my watch myself ? What kind of battery is in there?"

I'll tell you my attitude to this. "Just like with a bracelet, batteries should be changed by a professional."  

Because usually replacing the battery is not just replacing the battery. If it is, for example, a diver's watch, then it makes sense to immediately look at the gasket for sealing the case. Over time, it dries out and deforms. So it makes sense to look at it and at the same time check for tightness.  

Plus, self-replacement means dust is introduced into the case. Do you even need it?  

This is not an expensive procedure. My clients, even from other cities, often send me to my master in Dnipro. Everything is done on a turnkey basis and everyone is satisfied.  

I don't see any point in saving money on this and tinkering with something yourself. Especially if your watch is under warranty. It shouldn't be opened in a foreign place at all.  

If you have taken the mechanics, you have a question: "How often should it be serviced, what exactly should be done?"

Let me tell you this, I don't recommend specifically climbing into the middle of watches with inexpensive calibers.

As they say: "It works, don't touch it."  

In expensive watches, and I consider them to be from $4,000-5,000, you can look inside once every 2 years and at least lubricate the parts, check the gaskets, and once every 5-6 years do a complete overhaul, that is, completely overhaul the mechanism.  

A little more about functionality.  

If you see additional windows and a large, stationary second hand on your watch, then it is a watch with a chronograph (stopwatch).  

Chronographs are rarely used these days, but they add a nice, clean visual touch to watches. And a mechanical movement with a chronograph will always be significantly more expensive than one without one.  

I will show you the simplest example of how the mechanism works.  

We have two additional buttons. The upper one usually starts the chronograph.  

There are counters on the dial. It could be, for example: 12 hours, or 30 minutes, or tenths of a second.  

And so when the second hand of the chronograph advances by one minute, the minute hand (small dial) will move by 1 minute. Another minute will pass, another minute will be added. Thus, we have an analog stopwatch.  

The chronograph is stopped with the same upper button, and the indicators are reset with the lower one.  

Don't forget that in quartz watches the chronograph really drains the battery, so it's a good idea to be careful when it doesn't work, because I know that many people are used to the fact that the large second hand moves, and it bothers them that in this case it stops. This is normal. You'll get used to it.

Diving and other watches often have a movable bezel - a ring around the dial.  

Usually the bezel only moves counterclockwise, but there are models in which it rotates in both directions.

Plus, there are models in which the bezel is located inside the dial and is regulated by a separate valve. Such models are called the Super Compressor style.  

The bezel is needed to record time intervals. You set its zero mark opposite the minute hand. And from that moment on, you orient yourself by the minute hand and the bezel.  

In simple words, the bezel seems to shift the position of the minutes on the dial to make it easier for you to fix it.

This feature was created a long time ago so that divers could record time and understand when they would run out of oxygen in their tank.  

Most watches also have luminescent elements on the hands, markers, and sometimes on the bezel. Some even have fully luminescent dials.  

How it all works.  

The luminescent stores energy from lamps, the sun, and other light sources. Best of all, from the sun, because sometimes people write to me: "Something is wrong with the lumin." And I don't know how you use a watch.  

Usually it shines best if, for example, you were outside in the sun and then went into a dark room. Then it will be really bright. But it will fade gradually, and it all depends on the quality and type of fluorescent lamp.  

What does water resistance mean in your watch?  

• If it's 30-50 meters, it means you can wash your hands and withstand the rain. That's all.  
• If it's 100 meters, you can swim very carefully without diving.
• If it is 100 - 200 meters or more and the head is screwed on for better tightness, then you can already dive in the watch.  

But there are also many nuances here. It is very important how you use the watch in the water. For example, you can safely dive to 10 meters in a diving watch and nothing will happen, but you can hit the water with a bomb and the sudden pressure will cause a little water to get into the case. This happens.  

Plus. Very important - the head must be screwed into the body underwater, and the buttons must not be pressed in water, because micro-gaps appear, into which water will go.  

Here we have already smoothly approached what you can't do with your watch.  

You absolutely cannot change the date between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. If you pay attention, somewhere around 11 p.m. the date disc starts to slowly move by itself. The date doesn't move in one second, it does so over several hours.  

That is, the date translation mechanism is working all this time, and if you intervene at this time with a manual date translation, you can damage this mechanism.  

It is better to change the date during the day.  

Also, for the sake of simplicity, I don't recommend that you shake the mechanics too much. Well, for example, you decided to ride a bike over rough terrain. And your hand on the handlebars vibrates quite a bit. If you have a watch on your wrist at this time, then this is not very good. At least don't be surprised that there will be a big error.  

"Where do you keep your watch?"

Friends, as they say: "In a dry and cool place."  

You can store it in special cases, on a shelf, or in the original box. The main thing is that it is a neat place for your watch.

For example, I keep the ones I'm not wearing right now in a case. And the ones I'm wearing I carefully put on a shelf when I get home.  

Friends, I hope this information helps you get started. If I forgot something, please ask in the comments, I will answer there. Plus, share your experiences and stories if they somehow intersect with what I told.